There are a couple ways to approach this. Find a couple “one pot” or “one pan” meals and try those to get a healthy balanced meal without feeling overwhelmed. Soups and stews can be great for this.

Otherwise a meal should have a protein (e.g. meat or beans), veggie(s), and a carb. Keep it simple if you want to focus on being healthy. Also instead of trying to time everything cook each element separately and reheat when you are ready to eat. I’d do something like:

• baked chicken thighs using a seasoning mix (great thing about chicken thighs of that they are tolerant to overcooking)
• roasted veggies (grab baby carrots, add enough oil so they just shine, add some salt and pepper and roast at 400F until they are just soft)
• steamed rice

Obviously this takes longer, but gaining confidence is more important than speed. Also know that even good cooks mess up occasionally and have things come out bad. These are learning opportunities, don’t get put off of trying again because of a couple failires (on that note watch Glen and Friends cooking on Youtube, he shows mistakes and has the right attitude to dealing with them)

Unpopular opinion, but all nonstick cookware has a limited lifespan, get something inexpensive and Teflon and expect to replace it away every couple years. For the most part do your cooking in stainless steel, carbon steel, or cast iron cookware which are all fairly nonstick of you have good technique and save the Teflon for more challenging foods or when you can’t be bothered to wait for a pan to heat properly.

Good point, I missed adding that crucial detail.

Smart Homes arent terrible, but it is easy to end up with a terrible smart home if you don’t take care in designing it.

Consider who is using it. Are they tech saavy enough to use an app? Is every user only within your household? If not, make sure everything can be controlled without an app, smart buttons are a great solution. What automation actually benefits your lifestyle? Keep it simple where possible, start with just lights and maybe some sensors.

I think it is best to have an overall plan to make sure your devices work together, but start small. Choose devices that run on stable platforms and locally. Make sure everything can connect to Home Assistant, even of you don’t plan on using it, having the option may benefit you in the future.

Tangled spools are a user caused issue 99.9% of the time. About the only way a spool could be tangled out of the box is if the manufacturer had to manually rewind it and they screwed up.

I’ve got the same experience, never really had any issues with moisture for either PLA or PETG.

Pretty much every PLA or PETG print unless I want the textured surface of the powder coated sheet.

Large prints seem to peel off fine, and then I use the razor to slice off any smaller prints that don’t peel off when I flex the bed.

Cool plate supertack I assume you mean given there is an older cool plate available too.

Yeah having the razor blade scraper is a requirement for that build plate to get some types of prints off. I live the plate since I pretty much just don’t have to wash it or worry too much about accidentally touching the surface.

Yeah, that isn’t going to work. The nozzle has drag force due to the molten plastic so any tall and thin beams are going to flex as the layers are deposited.

I have a hard time calling this enshittification, it dilutes term if it is just used to mean anything getting worse. Rather it should be used to describe the purposeful corporate destruction of a service’s value to boost profit after attracting users.

Stupid question, you sure you are using the right bed temperature? The feature of a PEI textured sheet is that it self released the part when the bed cools down,.

Back when I had a Prusa I never had any success with the textured sheet and PLA, however it worked perfectly with PETG.

I’ve never really found anything unique enough that I’ve felt the need to purchase it over a free option that is available. Frankly, these days I tend to get frustrated by all the obviously bad models out there and just use my CAD skill to properly design exactly what I want.

Also I’d never purchase just a STL file, I’m opposed to the format because it is so difficult to modify. I might consider buying a STEP file if it does something unique and useful to me while saving a bunch of modeling work.

This post assumes way too much and gives the businesses more credit than they deserve. All the AI companies are looking for is maximizing compute per unit of rack space. They are only operating under the goal of winning the AI race to become wildly profitable and powerful. There is no consideration for any bankruptcy proceedings if/when the AI boom comes crashing down as that isn’t their problem at that point.

The GPUs used for these LLMs are simply not in a form factor that could be used for consumer devices, they fit in racks that use far more power than a home computer would be able to provide.Making them that way would be utterly idiotic.

Companies do it because customers continue buying the products, if sales dropped significantly due to the subscription then they would be forced to change.

Personally I will not buy anything that relies on the cloud or a subscription to keep running. My only subscriptions are Tidal and a couple more independent streaming services.

Agreed, no matter what comes out Trackmania is the game that has me coming back day after day.

The STL export will take your nice parametric model and turn it into triangles. The software defaults of most CAD systems are terrible for this. (I’ll die on the hill that STL needs to be phased out and STEP needs to become the default for precisely this reason). If you add a vector in the slicer then it has the context to be able to choose the right quality when slicing.

I suspect the Prusa issues were because you had a bunch of people not taking care of the machines. My Prusa Mk3S was just as reliable as my Bambu P1S.

Xbox controllers can be a bit unreliable on Linux in my experience. I’ve got an 8BitDo Ultimate 2C wireless that I quite like. They are way cheaper than an Xbox controller, have hall effect joysticks, and low measured latency.

It depends on the type of person you are. Those machines you reference are in a class of machine where you are likely to have to put a lot of work into them to get them running reliably and probably more money than if you just bought a better printer from the get go. They are machines to recommend people who want the 3D Printer to be their hobby rather than designing and printing stuff.

If that doesn’t sound like you, just buy a used Bambu or Prusa even if you need to delay the purchase to save up longer.