not an expert (not even a novice, just a person who taps) in photography, but i think the problem may be the lighting. I can tell color pencil from other colors because of it’s some what metallic luster. The color pencils which are water soluble don’t have it, but the oil based ones have it. Usually fix that stuff, you would want to add diffused lighting and removing directional lights, and maybe have longer exposure period in a lower light environment

let me test my powers

tests completed

I would also like to volunteer, although I don’t really have any experience modding a lemmy community, is there a guide or something? I would love to help if I can

Zipf’s Law is far more universal than human language, It is almost appears naturally if we start with a few simple conditions - consider a finite total group, and a initial distribution, where different elements have different wights and growth rates of elements is proportional to weights. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zipf’s_law

you can also make this with onion, and that is what I have made mostly. You can also store it for a reasonable amount of time if not oil fried, and over here (where i belong) we even have a spice which is essentially this onion chip powder

well, minced may not have been the best word. the size should be close to cross section of smaller confetti. Cabbage has very high water content, and if you dont get them small enough, they would not get crispy.

We have a peas and cabbage (essentially cook both of them in a pan/wok with mild spices, you can add carrots, tomatos or onions to your liking to increase the volume or add more textures), you can prepare dim-sums or momos (refined-flour or rice flour sheets filled with vegetables(usually cabbage, carrots; minced) or some meats, steamed). You can pickle the cabbages, or even make chips out of them (mince fine, then sun/oven/microwave/air-fryer drying to a point where they loose about 40-50% by weight/volume of water, then bake or fry to your preferences in mild spices)

epubs are effectively self contained html files, but the scripting is not there (afaik)

to add to it, you “can” add anything arbitrary, but it is not same as downloading a executable. Due to some really weird reasons, many parties were interested in using pdfs like interactive forms, for example some government forms, where you can fill a field, and you can add scripting to execute upon input and convey back. It is somewhat like javascript for pdfs, and then the onus is on the pdf readers to be compliant enough to execute such scripts, and provide enough access to your system. Many minimal pdf viewers do not implement these features, or for example pdf viewer in firefox has the option to execute, but disabled by default.

I have some background in chem (not in chem directly,but material synthesis), but absolutely none in gardening.

About stains, yes methyline blue can tell live from dead, but that is not that great of thing, i don’t remember names, but maybe you can find some good examples in the thought emporium yt channel or just in general, you can practically any stains, most will stain nucleus, or at least the nucleolus, and then you can take some good photos, for charecterisation, standard procedure is to check for absorbance, and then check for presence of particular organelles under really good microscope.

But damn the macro shots look good, i never use my macro lens, maybe will try in future.

1 More thing I missed earlier was hydroponics (sorry i did not open the link earlier), on checking, maybe the largest component making system acidic would be the MgSO4, and depending on temperature and solubility of MgOH, that can be mildly acidic (more than other corresponding mild bases)

[…] Adding Peroxide/ other oxidizers

the fun thing is, there weren’t any “oxidisers”. This is a gross oversimplification, but most things that i wrote are free radical generators, which can oxidise/reduce. About the chelations, most of these should be stable under free radicals, but most organic stuff (read stuff with free easy H+ or other alkali or alkaline earth metals) will have positive ions stripped, generating anions. But most chelates are any way anionic. so most of these would be “okay” (in reality, you may have some singlet donations, or some other fancy substitutions, but your chelates are “stable” enough for that(the forward rate constant would not be high)). If you dont want to add anything, then maybe consider electrolysis. For this I would recommend finding SRP (Standard reduction potential, fancy way to put how readily they want to reduce, if you really want to do fancy, find the concentration, diffusion and gas overpotentials too for really accurate calculation) for all ions involved. when you electrolyse a salt solution, lets say MgSO4, NaCl, and H2O, (I am pulling values out of thin air here, dont take the result here, just the methodology), and suppose Cl- is more readily reduced among Cl-, SO4 2-, and OH-, and H+ is more readily reduced among Na+, Mg+ and H+, then H2 and Cl2 will evolve, and you would be left with a basic medium. This way, you would have in-situ Cl generated which can kill anything. but you can control rate by controlling the current (voltage would be determined mostly by srp). This is pretty much what bleach has, a Cl in some positive valency, which will readily oxidise anything, but with bleach, you can only control concentration, here you can control both conc and current (that is rate) to figure things out. Experiment with this if you have time, and this can be cheap (for a cheap setup, you require table salt and a 5 volt battery with rheostat). For stability of chelates, you can look up ligand exchange energy, for standard stuff, you can very easily find values.

Yes it will kill everyone, good and bad guys. But for good guys (and considering it is hydroponics) - maybe you can add a small amount of algae later on. Be wise in its addition, as it can very easily bloom in such nutrient conditions. This is, in case you ever want to venture into aquaponics. I don’t think you require much bacterial culture anyway, if you do, I would recommend to maintain some good strains, and add later

i am not into gardening much, but your photos look great. You seem to have a good microscope, maybe you can buy some stains (not very expensive unless you buy good stuff to quantise) and even do some charecterisation.

From what I got, you have a mildly basic master batch, which you dilute. Regular tap water should not have a pH more than 9-10, and if you want the final batch to be neutral, then you need your master batch to have a pH of roughly 3-4. Since you have a mostly basic master batch (kOH in reasonable concentration alone would make it 13+). Most other salts would be mostly neutral. I dont know what phosphorus form you are using, if its phosphorus oxide (P2O3 or P2O5, though latter is very unlikely) then mildly acidic, if Calcium phosphate then mildly basic. If you target for a pH of 8-9 or plants (I dont think any higher would be suitable, though depends on plants, can you check for any residue (salts) on plant parts, if so, your stuff is way to basic).

Getting back on point, purely to get rid of any live growth, you can add anything which generates free radicals (peroxides (hydrogen, or sodium or potassium), or iodine (you can get tinctures), or even ozone (you can buy ozonator, somewhat expensive), or if you want to set something up, just perform some electrolysis in portions of master batch, but please ensure you don’t inhale stuff. And electrolysis will make system more basic.

My bigger question is, is this growth really problematic or not, if plant health is not getting hampered, i would not actually do anything, and maybe add some small amount of worms (if in soil, then even earth worms work). They can feed on this growth, and help in tilling.

Again, I am a gardening noob, and not a chemist, so what I may have said may as well be shit, please feel free to correct me.

well that gives me some soothe

my family is dying and i dont like it, atleast get me on the tracks with them, would not be able to live with the guilt anyway