LG WebOS doesn’t have good support for things like Jellyfin. If you want to ever build a library of media and let them have easy access to it, then WebOS is gonna suck, so will Samsung’s Tizen. But all the Android TVs have access.

Don’t know if you’re interested in that kind of thing, but figured I’d share it in case it was a factor.

The only other alternative is a commercial display.

My advice is worth exact as much as everyone else’s, one random voice on the internet.

That’s…not true at all. If I gave someone advice on how to do a brain surgery, they’d be idiotic to listen to me. Same with 3D printers. Your replies echo the hordes of uneducated 3D printer owners who don’t know where to locate these things.

Glass is manufactured using a float method - it cannot be manufactured non-flat unless it is intentional. (It CAN, however, be pulled out-of-flat with clips and clamps though!) Which shows the straws you’re grasping at because you didn’t have the knowledge available to you at the time as to what was causing your issue. In fact, you mentioning the ABL not working even further displays that your lack of knowledge was the entire issue. Bed leveling cannot work if the physical machine is not working according to the kinematic model. That model expects the X gantry to move perfectly parallel, and the head to be tight, and move exactly how much the machine thinks it’s moving. Yours wasn’t because you didn’t put it together correctly.

The fact that you’ve made the same mistakes that I see plenty of people making over and over and over again - means that your opinion is misinformed, and sharing it is not only not helpful, but actually detrimental to the greater discourse. This is why I left the 3D printing Reddit community, because masses of users were parroting “Dry Your Filament!” for every single problem out there.

Your issue with the bed leveling has more to do with how the X axis gantry is assembled on the older Ender 3’s. You want the left-cluster of eccentric spacers to be snug; and you want the ones on the right to be looser. The X axis gantry on the Ender also needs to be TIGHTENED. (the ones that are impossible to get to unless you take the X gantry off of the frame) It’s fighting shear forces, because creality was too stupid to design the left gantry brackets correctly, and many people leave these far too loose.

So what was happening, was your X gantry wasn’t moving parallel and staying that way - it was doing the wobbly-worm as your X gantry moved on the Z axis. It’s not a problem with the machine, it’s a problem with the education of the user.

But I love that you’re here, because you’re the EXACT example I was looking for. Creality gets a bad rap, from people like yourself who didn’t understand the mechanics behind how the printer was supposed to work. So you go on the internet and talk crap about them, because your experience was bad. Your bad experience was completely due to your own uneducation, but because you had that bad experience - you’ll never say it was you - you’ll blame Creality.

Remember: The Creality Ender 3 was designed, and deployed in an era where a majority of users were still building their machines from scratch, or from parts kits. It wasn’t a microwave-oven, and it still pushed what could be done by making the machines cheaper and available to more people. When viewed in a vacuum from the perspective of all the progress we’ve made today - absolutely, it’s a machine that doesn’t even compare. But that doesn’t make it a bad machine, just an old one.

It’s my opinion that they need to flat-out just discontinue the Ender 3, Pro, v2, Neo, etc – but they probably premanufactured millions of these things and they likely still want to get rid of the stock that’s out there. It’s still a wonderful machine - again - IF you know how it’s supposed to be properly assembled.

And if you listen to CHEP on YouTube, then you’ve assembled it wrong.

So I will repeat myself one more time for clarity: You were uneducated. There’s nothing wrong with that, so long as you’re willing to educate yourself. I was in your shoes 12 years ago when I first started, and I made the same stupid mistakes (though, it was with the community who were curious to try things at the time, vs this new generation of 3D printer owners who have no interest in the 3D printer at all).

Also, I agree with the statement that nobody should be buying an Ender 3, pro, v2, today. The v3 SE, KE - are worthwhile machines though, and one users uneducated trials from years ago does not echo what rings true today. If that were the case, QiDi should be in the garbage - because they were once one of the worst machines on the market. But they’re a pretty good machine now.

I have pretty unique experience here in that I run a 3D printer repair shop. I have my hands on literally thousands of machines (an avg of 3-4 a day or so).

I’ve never once seen a bent gantry extrusion. The Ender 3 was known for a faulty period between 2020 and 2021 where they made a non-glass-filled extruder levers; and that caused a lot of extrusion headaches with PLA.

And I’ve never seen a brass hobbed gear for the extruder wear down on just normal PLA. White-PLA can be a little bit abrasive, but glow in the dark is just as bad as carbon fiber.

Again, looping back to the non-glass-filled lever, I have absolutely seen PLA tear the shit out of that thing though – nearly cut it in half. But that’s not a QA problem; that’s a design/engineering problem.

It really isn’t. It’s the users who are mostly to blame. The one I see all the time, is users who replace the PTFE without knowing how that whole system works. Especially people who replace the PTFE with Crapricorn tubing.

Absolutely on the K1. Nobody should be buying it. Only time I ever recommend them – is when referring to the K1 Max. And that’s only when people want: A - To Print Fast, and B - Something larger than Bambu. But I’m starting to move toward suggesting the SV08 if I can see they are at least a little bit technical.

The normal K1? Forget it. Don’t buy it.

Creality isn’t a bad company, they’re just hindered by the ignorant. The Ender 3, the baseline, old 8 bit model - was a perfectly fine machine if you knew what needed to be tight, and what didn’t.

The new 3v3 SE is a wonderful machine at like $180 with direct drive, magnetic PEI bed, dual Z screws, and the works. It doesn’t require all the knowledge that the old versions did. It’s a perfectly fine beginner machine.

The problem with Creality is just that everyone bought one as an enthusiast, so they told all the non-enthusiasts it was a great machine, and without that same level of knowledge, those people fell HARD. In doing so, they returned and claimed that creality machines were garbage. But they really weren’t. As far as bottom-of-the-barrel budget machines go, they were pretty alright.

The Elegoo Neptune 4’s are pretty good. Avoid Anycubic FDM machines, but their Resin printers are good. Avoid Dremel; their nozzles are literally a smaller MK10 nozzle from 12 years ago with nichrome wire wrapped around it. They are unserviceable. Nozzle clogs, and you just buy a $35 replacement everything. Avoid XYZPrinting. New-gen Creality is good for beginners in this new higher-expectation world. Old-gen Creality, don’t even bother unless you’re getting it for <$50 and know enough to repair it yourself. (Old Gen is Ender 3, CR-10, Ender 3 v2, Ender 3 Pro, anything with “Neo” in it. Yes, Ender 3 is a version number. Yes, Creality is basically calling their printer the Ender v3 v2. Only Ender worth getting is the Ender 3, v3 (SE, KE, etc)) - If you have the budget, the Creality K1 Max is really the only alternative to a Bambu if you need a larger build size. Possibly the Sovol SV08 - but as much as I love the Klipper team, it is NOT the most user friendly on that front. If you like techy-stuff, the SV08 isn’t as polished as a Bambu, but may be worth the price/size ratio.

Ignore people telling you to print carbon fiber, most of them are idiots. Glow in the dark is also destructive to your machine, avoid that unless it’s DAS filament (who ball-grind their glow powder, so it’s not abrasive to brass nozzles and other softer parts of your machine).

Sovol machines are a pretty good Prusa-alternative. They cloned the machines quite well, and are much cheaper.

Stick with PLA for everything until you find a situation in which it fails. Move up to PETG after that. Don’t get caught up in the “TPU Trap”. Great, you can print a phone case. What are you going to do with the REST of the roll? TPU doesn’t work in remote-drive systems. YES, some of us who are headstrong can force it to work, but generally just accept that it doesn’t, and if you MUST use TPU, make sure you’re using it on a direct drive machine. If you have an enclosed machine, feel free to move up to ABS/ASA, HIPS, and others. Be prepared for the stinky. They do smell like burning styrofoam depending on the mfg.

Anyone selling you a used machine - you are adopting their problem. They wouldn’t be selling it to you otherwise. There is ALWAYS a problem. Buy new when possible. Also, though I HATE Jeff Bezos, get your shit from Amazon. It’s not their product, and if it’s defective, they’re not going to give you the run-around in replacing it. I’ve seen lots of people even told to keep the old/busted machine (great for spare parts later!). Amazon don’t give a shiiiiiiiiit. This isn’t possible for some machines: Bambu for example. They just don’t work with resellers.

And don’t go getting the cheapest bullshit filament you can buy. Stay above the…eh…$18/spool range. Lower than that, and you start getting some crusty shit.

If you have pets - good…fucking…luck. Pet dander, and all the shit they add to the air, is cancer to 3D printers. There is not a single pet owner that I have met where they aren’t constantly servicing their machine due to clogs.

It’s worth it if you like paying for headaches, living with outdated slicer software, and generally having to figure out how to achieve the things everyone else is doing with workarounds constantly.

I wouldn’t take a Dremel 3D40 if someone paid ME to take it from them.

Been around quite a while, and I understand perfectly how enshittification works. However, this still uses open source technologies at its core, and you’ll always be able to use those things. You can’t enshittify the core feature of this machine, because it’s built into it.

You can enshittify things that your customer doesn’t own - services, and the like.

But you cannot enshittify something you don’t control: The Slicer, etc.

The machine reads gcode, the machine spits out plastic. Reliably. There’s no avenue for making that worse in order to extract money.

Their cloud services, their remote monitoring…all just silly bonuses. None of that shit matters, and none of that is why Bambu is the best right now. What makes them the best is the added sensors on their machine, and the attention they paid to the build, quality, and operation of the machine.

The slicer, is open source - alternatives already exist (Orca Slicer). And enshittification only starts once a platform has matured and fully taken over the market; and even then - doesn’t always happen. It usually happens to US-based publicly traded companies. Which Bambu is not.

What you’re spreading is FUD. Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt. You have no proof that these things will happen, and you’re pearl clutching like Bambu will be the only ones who do it if/when that happens.

If you want to give up having the literal BEST VALUE, MOST ROBUST machine on the market out of some misplaced fear that doesn’t even have any merit…so be it. Go for it.

Enshittification is for services. Things you don’t own. This is a product that runs without any need to be connected to the internet. It will continue to run exactly like it is, exactly like you bought it. Sure, Bambu’s cloud-connect, and all that garbage? Sure - they could change those things. But that’s not what you buy a Bambu for.

In fact, ALL of the machines being suggested – don’t even have the services which could potentially be worsened in the future! So you’re even giving up a whole set of features, on the chance that one day you may not have them? But are willing to buy a machine without them instead? This is absolutely the most absurd line of thought I’ve ever encountered.

Not only that, but Bambu has been working with these guys: https://github.com/X1Plus/X1Plus – To allow an open source firmware on the X1C. You don’t do that if you’re planning on locking down the platform.

Bambu just has “future enshittification” written all over it.

I disagree. It’s the reason why everyone else is scrambling soooo fucking hard to catch up with them. The A1 is absolutely a killer value for a machine. If anyone asks about multicolor, Bambu is the only one I’ve seen that’s as reliable as it needs to be. I cannot recommend anyone else for multicolor.

There are quite literally not any machines out on the market that even come close to Bambu with their multitude of sensors. They’ve got tangle sensors, they’ve got programming that will detect blobs or disconnects of prints from the bed – really - nobody comes close.

I literally run a 3D printer repair shop. Every model. They’re one of the most frequently seen machines, despite being waaaaaay less popular than the Creality Ender 3. (And honestly, the 3v3 SE is a pretty solid machine now)

Their new line has gotten a lot better, but their support is still difficult to get the correct parts from when things go wrong. And I have to reiterate, their resin machines are amazing. I don’t know how they get FDM machines so wrong, because their resin machines are great.

Elegoo Neptune 3/4 are great and a great value though if you desire speed and reliability.

Never, ever buy Anycubic FDM printers. They are the worst garbage on the market. I have the complete opposite opinion about their resin machines though. Their FDM machines have faulty wiring; as they chose the wrong materials for their ribbon cable assemblies; and any time I’ve asked them for a set of cables to replace a faulty one, they’ve sent me the wrong set of cables…up to 3x in a row.

It’s bad enough, and they know it’s bad enough that they actually removed a bunch of their FDM machines from their own slicer. Additionally, they use a modified version of Smoothieware, violating the license by not giving out the modifications they made to work with the screen.

I run a repair shop, and the Elegoo Neptune 4 is actually quite nice. The hot end is way easier to repair than the 3 and it’s quite fast as well. Seconding this one. Downside is that they use a custom-length nozzle. But everyone seems to be doing that now.

The Sovol line of printers is good too, especially the SV-08 - It brings the voron into the world where it’s not just a trophy printer that proves you can handle the worst of things.

Won’t attend it now that it has nothing to do with RepRap.

It allows programmers to be paid to work full time instead of just for free in their spare time.

That way, if the VPN goes down, your torrent client isn’t just downloading stuff nakedly.

You always just bind the torrent client to the VPN adapter so this doesn’t happen. Most modern clients have this (qBittorrent certainly does)

How about: Signal is better? Though, they recently were caught with some unencrypted shit on the desktop client.

For bowden there is a benefit.

There is not. I can empirically prove it to you as well. Half of the ‘capricorn’ tubing you get from Amazon isn’t even genuine - yet everyone there is clamoring on about how it made a difference.

Turns out, that confirmation bias and placebo effect share a lot of overlap. I get it, nobody wants to admit they’ve been bamboozled. But hey…stay critical of your observations.

You don’t really use pressure advance in bowden systems because the bowden system is flexible enough that it actually negates most of the advantages of pressure advance. As the pressure increases, the bowden tube itself stretches lengthwise. This has little or nothing to do with the interior bore of the PTFE tubing. The reason you are increasing it so much is because you’re overshooting due to the length of the tubing, not the internal diameter.

We’re not comparing Bowden vs Non-Bowden here, regardless. We’re comparing generic PTFE bowden, to “Capricorn” bowden anyhow.

So you’ve managed to argue the completely wrong thing to begin with, AND you were wrong on the thing you argued. Congrats.

Please continue to forget about that cancer site.

The tubing diameter difference is only fractions of a mm, and now you’re talking about a 100mm length along. You don’t need to measure it, it’s literally in the dimensions and tolerance info of the product.