Is it possible? Yes. And you’ve mentioned stability could be an issue. I’ll add that if you count your time and wasted plastics to test the thickness, infill, etc. I think it’ll cost more than just buying the extrusion.

That said, if you already have core xy printer, you can start testing by replacing the frame with a printed parts. Starts with the vertical ones.

1. If micro stepping varies that much then FDM printers (and CNC machines) wouldn’t have worked so well. Also, you can tune the micro steps, if you need 410 steps to move exactly 10mm instead of the default 400, just change it. (I just pull a random number btw, it’s been at least 5 years since I touched my Marlin firmware)
2. If you’re familiar with coffee grinders, they’re basically using thread to adjust distance between 2 burrs. Even there (mid to upper-mid range ones) can’t guarantee the same grind size on the same setting for different unit of the same model, eg. setting 11 on grinder A will have slightly different result compared to another unit of grinder A on setting 11. Can it be done? Yes, one example is Commandante, that is a $300 hand grinder.

Tight tolerances will exponentially skyrocket production cost, period.

It’s extremely expensive to produce things with tight tolerances. Cheap 3D printers have gotten away with it by making things “good enough”. Which why you got this the other way around;

In short, instead of an arbitrary number like 0.3mm that has no meaning to the user, they tell the user to turn this knob 1/4 of a turn. An instruction the user can follow.

0.3mm is easy to measure with the right tool like digital indicator. On the other hand, quarter turn on a knob might adjust 0.3mm on one bolt, but 0.5mm on another.

Also as mentioned, ABL, cheap and can be DIYed. Cheap / printed parts can warped over time, bolts can shaken loose, etc. ABL just put these out of the equation.

Turntable uses needle to feel the “bumps” and turn it into sound, if the needle can feel dusts (which is why people always wipe them before playing), it can definitely feel the layer lines.

Dusts are like what single digit microns? while the best resolution for resin printer is at 10 microns.

I just use the cheapest fruit dehydrator and snips away some of the trays.

It really depends on your lifestyle. Most machines will need some heat up time and if you’re not sure you won’t be pulling another shot for the rest of the day, it’ll sit there, consuming like 1000+ watt of power, at least when the heater is on.

I got myself VBM Domobar (HX) more than a decade ago, and still going strong. I don’t regret it. It was especially useful during covid lockdown.

Again, it really depends on your lifestyle. It is higher maintenance than any filter brewer. Demands higher end grinder, although those are much more affordable these days.

I over-bought on size and have a hopper that holds nearly a pound of beans; I rarely grind more than a shot a day, for myself.

That’s what’s happening in cafes with their EK43s anyway.

Does the anti-static feature really seem to work, in your experience?

Mine is the OG DF64, anti static feature is not there. RDT. I got mine because of SSP compatibility and my Eureka Mignon is showing its age. And I wanted something that can handle espresso and filter.

I’ve been using https://utteranc.es/, same concept but using Github issues as comment. This is interesting, especially if there’s a way to handle each user’s instances.

I have 64 with SSPs, and loving it.

Wasn’t the Sette higher end than DF64?

What is VSO?

That is an odd take, I mean, if there are still new games release on Switch in 20 years, then sure? Switch definitely has better chance on having newer games than DS in those time frame.

The reason for my question: I don’t want to own obsolete hardware in 10 years.

In that case, why not wait for the next gen? I have my Switch since 2018, I think, it’s still the first gen one, that can be modded without hardware. I’ll continue play it as long as there’s a game for it. The only way to have the most time of a hardware is to get it when it’s new, right?

Paying somebody for streaming film and TV shows that they have no hand in producing, and thus not supporting new productions — same as I can download for free myself? — that makes no sense to me

It makes sense for me. The one i’m using is $20 per year. I just think of it as convenience fee. It has netflix features but for all movies and tv shows.

If it’s fine with PLA then my money is on profile issue. Use your PLA profile, and just change the temperature. If that works okay, start tuning for PETG from that point. And delete the old PETG settings.

That looks like it’s not melting fast enough for the extruder speed. Try higher temp, or slow it down, or both.

unless you stay permanently offline, but at that point you might as well just mod your Switch anyway.

I feel like that’s the point of this cart. Hard modding is near impossible for most people. The choice is sending your switch to random person to be modded, which I doubt it’ll be cheap. Or just get a flash cart.

None that I’ve found has anything close to SponsorBlock for youtube, in theory it could work, even SponsorBlock has open issue for it.

The problem is, a lot of podcasts are using dynamic ads insertion, which means the ads are added on the fly when user download an episode. Ads length could be different from person to person, and there’s a possibility of empty slot too, where the podcast unable to sell the slot. “We’ll be back after this short message,” and jump straight into the next segment. No ad.

Downloaded Control from Fitgirl, but turns out I already have it on Epic.

I just got a cheap food dehydrator and stop thinking about it. I just print as needed, mostly functional stuff, or just enclosure for my electronic projects. 1 kg lasted me months, I’m still on the same kg that I bought early this year. And I’m in SEA, we have like 90+% humidity here.

Only if you have strong arms? If you already have one at home you can try hosting a small get together where you need to pull 10 shots back to back.

I mean, I have been to a shop with lever machine but it works differently from Flair. On Victoria Arduino Leva, you pull all the way down, then slowly push the lever back up. Seems like it’s much easier on the arms than Flair.

I’ll be that guy. The picture shown is cold drip. Cold brew is when you mix coffee and water and left it in the fridge for x hours.

But really, among the pictures, I’d pick Napoletana simply because I’ve never had them.