The 2 is a purge line, meant to clear any pressure in the nozzle and wipe it off before a print. It can be edited in your Start G-code on the printer settings tab > custom g-code on prusaslicer.

The 1 is a skirt, meant to get rid of any last few hanging bits of filament and start a clean print (sometimes the purge line doesn’t get everything off the nozzle). It can also be used to gauge any last minute adjustments to your z offset. If the nozzle is too close or too far, you’ll know before the print actually starts. I find that the skirt can be disabled if you’re using a brim, since it’s redundant at that point. Some who have fine tuned printers may opt not to use one at all without much issue. It isn’t meant as any kind of draft shield as another person said - that’s a separate setting. It’s just a failsafe for the cleanest prints possible, avoiding hanging bits of filament, blobs from built up pressure, and incorrect z height. The first layer is the most important so everything that helps the first layer helps the rest.

Not as fast as I’ve been spending 😇

Doubtful. The main reason I could see a 3D printer starting a fire is either thermal runaway, often caused by bad software (on cheap printers) or electrical issues. You can check your wiring and make sure that nothing looks loose and all of your cables are in good condition. You can also make sure that your printer firmware is up to date. It’s a Prusa right? I think you should be safe from software failure in that case, as they’re quality.

If you’re really concerned about it, you can also move your power supply, and even your mainboard, outside of the enclosure by using longer cables. This would keep the majority of the electrical components away from the foam and heated box. From my position I don’t see an issue, but that’s my personal opinion – not legally accountable information. I will say that Stefan on CNC Kitchen uses foam as well, to get rid of ringing in prints. If you decide to go through with it, just use common sense and check to see if anything is hot. You might also get some benefit out of looking into silent stepper motors/drivers and trying to make the printer itself quieter.

There’s also looria.com/reddit, which gives product recommendations based on the thoughts from different hobby subs. :)

This is why I chose to go with kobo over kindle. You still have overdrive/libby access, but can also import and organize all of your books via calibre.

When I mentioned Windows, I meant that Adobe also requires Windows 10. And I don’t believe in using edge or chrome because they’re both anti-privacy. I feel like a huge company like Adobe aim to be compatible on most browsers and shouldn’t limit their website visibility because of the browser you’re using, especially with something like Firefox which is well-known. It sets a bad precedent for other websites to do the same, which cuts off the freedom of the web.

Yeah, it’s a bit hard when you’re dealing with industry standards. I’m provided CC through work so it’s not really my choice, but it sounds like Affinity still isn’t a 1:1 option. I’ve been interested in it so I’m glad to hear the other side of things. It’s easy to go FOSS for most personal things, but not as much when it comes to doing business.