This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it’s either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn’t say it’s that it’s the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I’m printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that’s not important. I’ve had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I’m printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

You’re completely right, I forgot about that method. I’ve used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

True, I’ve seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn’t go over 60C and you’re good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don’t have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn’t work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won’t do much.

A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

As others have mentioned:

• Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
• Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
• Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it’s original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you’re printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it’s gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

In 2024? No, unless it’s a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I’d be buying today,I’d buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn’t find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it’s very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.

I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.

You could use just a regular 5 min epoxy. I frequently use CA glue, but depending on your use case, it might be too brittle.

Tried it today, didn’t expect much, but I have to say I was pleasantly surprised at the speed and look and feel. I will give it a try for a while to see if I will switch from vscode permanently.

This looks the most promising. I’ll take a closer look. Does it provide a rtsp stream?

Any PC that has virtualization features can be used. Unless it’s very old, I’d say it’s supported. But it may not be enabled in the bios by default. It’s called VT-x for Intel and AMD-v for AMD, I think. But both are supported for at least 10 years on almost any PC.

It’s a hypervisor level virtual machine host and you can use it to install multiple os’s on the same machine with little overhead. I’ve been running haos like that for a few months now and I’m super satisfied.

There is indeed multiple ways of doing anything in freecad. But over time, I prefer staying in Part design as much as possible as this makes it more modifiable and customizable and there are plenty of reasons more for me. But in the end - whatever works is good enough.

Shape binder is what you need. Shape binder can be used to reference geometry from another body. What I would do is I’d make one pocket on the main body. Then select another body and make it an active body. Then select the pocket you made (the surface or the edge) and create a shape binder (part design). This will effectively import the selected feature from the first body and you can reference it from second body. Make sure you hide the first body, as it somehow gets in the way of shape binder, for some reason. Repeat for third body.

Yes, for one device, I’d do wifi too. ZigBee does add complexity, but it also adds many possibilities. Esphome is a good solution, I use it also. In fact it seemlessly integrates with HA, so it doesn’t matter

One of the bigger reasons is ZigBee is capable of mesh network forming, which is useful if you want more devices to be smart. It’s also low power. And the devices are in their private network isolated from the internet, which is also a desirable quality. In summary, ZigBee is built for smart devices, whereas wifi not so much.

This is great! I’ve only recently discovered jq and was thrilled to have it after bashing my head in bash for a couple of days. I replaced the whole operation with a single line. This tutorial is just what I need. I like that it’s interactive and has neatly grouped examples! Bookmarking it, as I’ll need it very soon again.

This seems like the best option for my country. They are easily available and seem cheaper than Reolink. Do they have free API for all the smart functions as well? Like movement detection etc.

I have a newer ZigBee 3.0 dongle and run a few add-ons, but nothing big - z2m, nodered, mosquito is all I use. I will upgrade anyway, but I’m not in a hurry, it works fine, apart from an occasional delay in switching, which might be network related.