Seems like my “fuck EA I’m not giving them money ever again” policy is beginning to pay off :)

I bought a Razer Basilisk 3 because it was the only mouse where I could reach both thumb buttons with the fingertip-ish grip I use. Wasn’t fully supported by Linux software at first, but worst case I could program it on Windows which I had on a dual boot at the time. Now that I can use it with Polychromatic and OpenRazer it even works better on Linux. On Windows the Razer software won’t let me save individual LED colours to the mouse, and needs to be running all the time in order to do that…

My guess is that Microsoft will provide their own kernel level anticheat to game developers, using a secure API which will be impossible to emulate with Wine etc.

Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.

Only 3.8B parameters according to the paper, so it ought to be quite easy on the hardware as well if they do.

It did alright, don’t think I saw that many obvious cheaters in BF1. BF5 would occasionally have obvious cheaters, but I would hope they get banned eventually just because it’s over the top (shooting people through walls, infinite ammo, perfect aim). Difficult to say with more subtle cheats, but I suppose if they’re indistinguishable from players who are just good at the game then I think most people won’t ever notice.

On the flip side I got permabanned from multiplayer in BF5 after EA falsely accused me of cheating, though I suppose that could’ve happened with any kind of anti-cheat, and could’ve been fixed by having half-competent support.

I think FairFight is the old anti-cheat, which at least used to be server side only.

Unfortunately most Battlefield games worked fine with Wine/Proton for years since EA used server side AC, so they already have our money.

I’ve never got my Vive to work well in Linux, even though I’m using X which supposedly still is better for gaming that Wayland.

What is the solution?

My guess is that Microsoft wants provide some kind of kernel level anti-cheat, possibly directly integrated with directx, and it will use cryptography which will make it impossible to emulate with Wine/Proton.

Did you follow some guide when replacing the nozzle and bowden tube? Did you hot tighten it when putting them back?

What speed are you printing at, which you think is too slow? What’s your acceleration?

It’s a myth that capricorn tubing is better in any way

I’d call it “successful marketing” :) But yeah, they’re really managed to convince a lot of people that it has near magical properties, and I’ve seen a lot of random people recommend it to others for all sorts of issues.

So sad that they didn’t fix the AC until the game had been around for years, I would’ve loved to play it in the beginning when the player skill was more varied. Tried to get into it when Linux was allowed but it seemed like mostly the try-hards were still playing. Had some good games but it was a bit too sweaty for my friends at times.

I tried playing it through Wine during season 2 or 3, the game worked flawlessly but you would get kicked after 1-5 minutes due to missing AC.

The first game was named Battlefield 1942, so technically there hasn’t been a “1” in the series before this :) It came out in 2016 so it’s not really new, but I bought it last year and played it on Linux for a few hours with friends, and it still has an active player base.

Have they stated that they’re going to support Linux or at least Proton/Wine? I did a quick search on the game’s Steam forum and it sounded like it doesn’t work currently.

It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.

Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.

What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.

Assuming they already own a PC, if someone buys two 3090 for it they’ll probably also have to upgrade their PSU so that might be worth including in the budget. But it’s definitely a relatively low cost way to get more VRAM, there are people who run 3 or 4 RTX3090 too.

Probably a joke, since there’s always someone commenting that the item isn’t food safe whenever a model for something food related.