• 4 Posts
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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: August 9th, 2023

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  • Looking closer on the X, Y, Z and E ports i observe that the ports are labeled different on the two cards.
    Old SKR v1.4: Square pin = 1B, next pin = 1A, next = 2A, and last is 2B. Also the order is EN | STOP | DIR
    New SKR MINI: Square pin = 2B, next pin = 1B, next = 1A, and last is 2A. The order looks like EN | STOP | DIR

    Should i rearrange the wires in the JST so that the wire that on the old card was connected to 1B, also is connected to 1B on the new card, and so on?

    The EN | STOP | DIR part is in the same direction in the pinouts, even the whole connector is upside-down on the SKR MINI. Why is this? Is this just labeling the round pins?

    Arrghh, I have so many noob questions…



  • Here comes the fun part.
    The Biqu B1 has all it’s wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.

    On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
    On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
    The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.

    In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:

    [fan_generic hotend_fan] #use for testing of hotend fan pin: PC7
    pin: PC7
    
    [fan] #part fan pin: PC6
    Pin: PC6
    

    This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.

    This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.

    When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.

    The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I’ve added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.








  • Yeah, it’s a pretty standard setup. The previous owner put a BLTouch on the printer but never got it to work. I’ve had the printer for about 2 weeks and was about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
    I’m pretty new in the 3D print business and know nothing about flashing, compiling, and all the options you can do. You recommend the SKR MINI 3.0, and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original SKR V1.4. What are the benefits of changing to the SKR MINI? And, no, I’m not in the US. But I’ll find it here in Norway…
    And Klipper? Not heard of that either, but a fast youtube peek tells me that this too might be interesting…