Some humour transcends lifetimes, we were carving dicks into walls before the first century.
Some humour transcends lifetimes, we were carving dicks into walls before the first century.
Tripod and/or post processing matching the multiple images
ZenFone 10 is the last “small” phone I can remember. Sad to see them drop the smaller size with the 11.
I remember when my 4.8 inch phone was considered a phablet. But it was no bigger than my 6.7 inch phone is now, just bigger bezels.
Just need a 7 inch phone now so it’s bigger than my first tablet.
Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.
Holy constipation Batman, or are those not that bad?
ASA and ABS definitely do better at elevated chamber temps. What temp is enough I can’t say but I still saw improvements when going from 50 to 70c. Higher temps also let you use more fan speed without the added risk of warping so you’ll probably see better overhangs even though the temps are higher.
Id start with adding some chamber temp sensors first so you can measure what difference you are making with the other mods.
Using 4 mm abs panels I saw about a 15c improvement by just throwing a fleece blanket over the printer, so that might be an easy fix if you don’t print large parts frequently. Although higher temps are also great for layer adhesion on smaller parts.
Yeah ridga or vzhextrudort style gears definitely help greatly. You could do a mihai style test to see if the artifacts on the i3 are mostly extruder related or from the XY motors.
Tuning drivers consistently for quality is going to require an oscilloscope, although there are some experiments with attaching an accelerator to the motor while doing a frequency sweep.
Of course you could just change settings and see if there is a visual difference, but there are too many settings and combinations to make that realistic.
What chamber temp are you using for such a large part? I’d recommend at least 70+C but that might be hard to reach with acrylic panels.
Your bed will also warp due to the heat since its rigidly mounted.
Surface quality is also driver (+ driver settings) and motor related, and even the combination of them.
This actually works way better than people expect. Many authors are tied to a publisher but are still allowed to personally give away copies to students.
It’s Austrian German, so close enough to Dutch at times I guess.
You only calibrate E, calculate for XYZ.
Calculate the rotation distance for the Z, if it doesn’t move the correct distance when asked you have a broken part.
Only downside is abysmal flowrates with hardened steel unless you’re using a hardened cht. Even the clone hardened steel chts are fine since its actually only the tip of the nozzle that wears fast.
Thinking about this again, could it be you have something like “wait for layer time” on and a very high minimum layer time set for your petg profile?
If its stopping 10 to 20 seconds there’s definitely something in the gcode making the printer hang. I’d try slicing the file again with a different slicer to be sure.
What printer do you have? https://youtu.be/Hvw3DrVAeTA?si=Pfy8z7OdlsybvbMN It could be this issue but that wouldn’t be material dependent but might show up more with petg since it’s more runny than pla.
Simple, just don’t ever swap spools after opening one.
New revisions of the printer design itself of course.
Already has the best range stats out of all the classes, uses the intelligence stat to boost it even further.