It ended up being solid just because of the standard wall thicknesses, but PLA prints are quite strong from a compressive standpoint. That said, I am sure I am not applying the entire 6 tons. I have done similar experiments with a bench vice with similar results too, it’s just a little harder to line everything up give the jaw depth.
Here’s a picture of the stamp.
It’s just a 3mm thickness disc with the picture on the top at 2mm. I use a 6 ton shop press to compress it with a 1" steel plate used to distribute the force. The print is a no name brand black PLA printed at 0.2 at the fast setting on an AnkerMake M5. You can also see the residual ink, the stamping only takes a small amount. I did a few at one time without having to reapply.
One of my favorite character and was the inspiration for the stamp for sure.
I make some small things for gifts and being able to make a custom stamp for a few uses is a cool concept.
I went over the stamp with blue sharpie and wet the leather with water and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol. When you compress the stamp into the leather with a press the alcohol reactivates the ink in the recesses.
This was my first attempt with a 3d printed stamp. Worked great!
I recently found out about the Zelda: Link to the Past randomizer community. Essentially there is a method to modify the original game to randomize the item locations and other aspects of the game while ensuring the game can be completed. Each game has a seed so you can look it up if you get to stuck. I played through it once and it was a really interesting challenge since I didn’t get the bow until 60% of the way through the game.
I played Like a Dragon with no background and it was a great experience. Really wacky in a satisfying way. Only grievance is there is ~10 hours of cut scenes to beat the game.
For sure. I just dragged and dropped the jpg into 3d Builder. That program is rudimentary but if it is a simple drawing it does a great job creating a model.