• 3 Posts
  • 32 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • HumanPenguin@feddit.ukOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBoat work update.
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    5 days ago

    Desiccant is used a lot in boats. ( in the uk at least where damp is an issue )

    But is a different way to 3d printers. It’s more about directing condensation.

    My thought is to build desiccant holders to mount near the boat windows. (not sure your location if you dont know narrowboat, So ill describe the issue)

    My boat was built in the 1970s so is currently single glazed. We plan to do a complete rebuild of the inside and the glazing. But poor again so time.

    This design tends to mean condensation builds up hugely on the windows. As the whole design of a steel boat leads to temp differences and the UK has high humidity. More so at water level of course.

    The issue is the condensation then runs down from the windows along the wooden panels inside the boat. Doing huge damage over the years. One of the big reason owning a boat is costly. There is constant maintainance and replacement work. Im good at the electrics. But my younger brother dose most of the woodwork.

    A common solution is to have a desiccant container with a water catcher below it positioned near the windows. This effectively absorbs some of the humidity before in condensates on the windows. Then, as the Desiccant overloads, releases it into the catcher.

    You then need to empty the catcher and replace/dry the desiccant often. And honestly, it still just reduces the issue.

    You can buy holders to do his. Sold for boats and caravans etc. But honestly they tend to be a bit universal, so not actually very usable.

    Part of me thinks I can design a 3 part system that can be mounted. Have a drip pipe leading directly to the bilge rather than running down the walls. Then have slot in desiccant units that can be carried home and back and microwaved as we swap over.




  • Some corrections.

    The boat and the workshop are separate. My brother and I share a 25ft x 6ft10inch narrowboat. We tend to travel over spring and summer swapping over as we move it around the UK.

    The tiny area I scanned (not well) was the engine room as it is under tge rear deck so low down small and cannot like many boats be opened from the top.

    Hence the need to measure things to layout access.

    The workshop is in my 2 bed home. So less crowded.

    It is cool that you remember the stuff. When the boat is done I’ll def share pics. But my mobility and costs mean its likely to be a year or 2 before all is done.


  • HumanPenguin@feddit.ukOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBoat work update.
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    7 days ago

    Most of the stuff is together. (obtained wise) Mounting etc is a big part of the 3d printer. But likely after the engine room.

    The smaller pie is planned to manage the solar dump. along with a diesal air to water heater (Bobil Van) Linked in but only temp shut off via the pie.

    All the mounting etc comes after the bilge and engin electronics.

    Likely early 26 for finisjh given our mobility. (edit: and poverty, that’s the bit that takes longest:)

    Thanks for remembering




  • Honestly, If it is ever made to work. A mobile/robotic 3d printer would be a huge step forward. Solving the issue of levelling on more random surfaces, IE all existing surfaces. Plus the Issue of moving heat stability with different plastics. It all sounds doable in an open design way. But hugely complex and in need of this type of nutcase to start it off.

    But the advantages it would give to home-maker like design would be freaking huge once things become well understood. Adding already developing multi mateial heads etc.

    As I have said elsewhere. Never underestimate the value of someone insane enough to try and make dumb shit work. Almost everything we depend on started from someone thinking the most insane idea would be fun to try.








  • With the amount of open bed, cheaper printers, a lot. Keeping them inside does not prevent them from entering the environment. As well we need to breath to start with, so airflow will take it outside. Add vacuum cleaning and waste disposal. Unless the plastics are trapped and melted into larger clumps. They get into the environment. This is why they are so dangerous.

    Even with enclosed printers. Unless very well filtered and some plan for disposal of that filter that prevents this. It’s just an extra delay.

    Some plastic types are better than others. And I honestly think development of thermo plastic replacements is better than stopping 3d printing.




  • Multihead printing is still in the early days.

    Agreed but then so was 3D printing as a whole 10 years ago. It is open source design started by Rep Rap that put us where we are now.

    Im a about to be beginner. Recently retired through disability. So finally have time to play with the subject. So yes, at some point I’d like to come back to you and take you up on your offer. ATM im saving to buy a Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. And from there I have some projects to do then will start building my own design based on an open design I looked at in the past. (cant remember the name of my head)




  • HumanPenguin@feddit.ukOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldNewbe advice
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    4 months ago

    Thanks very useful. More or less what I expected but great to get confirmation. Humidity here is 30 to 60% averaging the higher end more often. So def need decent drying chamber.

    Yep, I knew the tent was more about retaining the heat. Just considered the hose a useful add-on. It is good to know you think that will be adequate as I could not find much online.

    Do you think mixing colours at diff layers will be an issue as long as I keep both rolls in drying chambers?

    Again, thanks for taking the time. It is fantastic to get some confirmations and advice from someone who has used the stuff before I spend what little cash I have.