Interesting how MS is the reasonable one here where all their copilot stuff clearly separates paying business from free consumer stuff for training / not training.
However slack has gone and said they will train on everything, and ONLY the paying companies can request to opt out.
Too bad so sad for all those small dev teams that have been using the “free” version of slack… No option to opt out.
He opens the video with “over the years I have used ZHA and Zigbee2mqtt” so I made a little assumption. but that makes it worse if he was already using Zigbee2mqtt when he picked up the Sky Connect and didn’t check compatibility.
If you are using a supported NON experimental adaptor / chipset and you have powered devices with strong connections to it, you should be fine. The only optimization I would do is put your USB stick on an extension cable and get it a little ways away from the computer as when they are jacked directly into a pi/computer the USB port can actually cause a little interference.
To save you going 5 min into the video… He was using an adapter with zigbee2mqtt that was listed as experimental.
It is less about the network adaptor and more that he switches from zha to zigbee2mqtt with the skyconnect / homeassistant adaptor that is still not fully supported in zigbee2mqtt.
Using a coordinator more central to your network can help but as long as a large number of your powered relay devices have a strong connection there isn’t anything wrong with using the USB ones.
The ONLY issue with the USB ones is that it is recommended you put them on an extension cable as the USB port it self can cause interference, and putting a little distance from the antenna helps.
So his solution DOES all that, and is a good solution, but I wouldn’t just go toss your USB stick in the bin…
RAID isn’t backup it is high availability.
40 drives ? Why that is a huge amount of power , what is your space target
RAID 1 ? With 40 drives ? That would be absolutely stupid you want to use RAID 6 or 10 so you don’t waist 50 % of your space with RAID 1. Or some other N+2 disk redundancy.
Have you considered how much power such a large setup will need?
iSCSI is block level storage where NFS/SMB are file level… When you browse a folder with SMB/NFS it is going to ask the remote service for the meta file list then cache the whole thing till it thinks it needs it refreshed… iSCSI is going to go read a set of blocks to read the metadata off the remote file system. iSCSI can be considerably more chatty between the two hosts as it is lower level.
Isn’t this exactly what the Camera Specific Configuration in the frigate documentation tells you to do?
Create a helper group that has all the lights.
Trigger:
Helper group turns on for 30 min
Condition:
I used time after and before as a fixed time.
Action:
service turn off with a target of the helper group
Should result in the trigger firing 30min after ANY light turns on and only turning them off at the set time.
Simple answer would be to attached the pi to the router via the router Ethernet port on the LAN side and learn how DHCP and DNS work.
Pi-hole is primarily a forwarding DNS server that filters DNS requests
Don’t forget a more user friendly digital download SHARING system as well… We tried “SHARING” a digital download switch game a few times… Steam is far more forgiving. Switch wins on swapping carts however, if you stick to physical purchases for sharing.
These existed shortly after the iPhone came out under the presumption people would miss the physical keys from blackberries. They didn’t sell well back then I don’t think they will now.
Odd I have done the full setup several times As I run pure dockers / separate HA, Mosquito MQTT and Zigbee2mqtt and the devices all just auto discover and appear in HA has devices with entities with full control.
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/configuration/homeassistant.html
Did you enable home assistant discovery since you were doing a manual installation?
# Optional: Home Assistant integration (MQTT discovery) (default: false)
homeassistant: true
HA related the Litter Robot does have an integration for the wifi enabled ones and it will report state and error codes.
As previously stated I have an LR3 already that my cat STOPPED using… Not sure the LR4 opening is different enough to get him back in one.
Cost and my old cat not willing to try it are the two things that hold me back from getting an LR4… It it is wider but still not open so I am not sure he would use it.
I have a LR3 it is great until it isn’t… Both my cats used it for several months but my oldest cat with joint issues refuses to use anything but an open litter box now (doesn’t like the confined space)… Also possibly fixed in the LR4 the LR3 FULL sensor easily gets false positives due to dust build up from litter and is a PITA to clean.
I have been looking at a lot of reviews for alternatives but all of them eventually seems to have some flaw around reliability.
I get 550Mbps on 5 ghz (80Mhz wide) with my iPhone 13 and I get 800-850Mbps on an iPad pro on 6Ghz (160Mhz wide). When in the same room as the AP. When not in the same room speeds are a bit all over the map.
This is via the speedtest.net app on a 1Gbit fibre connection.
I am using new U7 Pro Wall APs.