Walls are too thin for a bottle and with the cut for r&i I would expect it to have issues at the seam. Even with this, the seam requires holding until it starts to get touching contact. Maybe if the bottle is extended past the 45°-50° tangent it would do a little better but then it has drop potential, especially with this PC/ABS blend and no part fan in an enclosure.
Thanks so much. I did not know the original purpose of the profile. In my experience with 3d printing, the buttress profile strength is in the opposite orientation when printed vertically. The additional length of the tapered profile creates a better distributed load across more layers of the stretching member/fastener. Still, I will prioritize overall printability without supports over thread directional orientation in most cases. I’m usually using a very large custom sized thread where the thread strength is irrelevant.
Like here in my laptop GPU water cooler project, I am using a buttress thread and spline to retain the cooling block and pump.
Printing like this is a fun start on the path of thinking about what is possible.
In FreeCAD, there is Mark’s Thread Design workbench. That includes a thread profile called the buttressed thread. The profile has a print orientation where, if you print it vertical, the thread will not produce any overhangs, like if a normal thread profile is a buttress thread is 7. Mark has a YT upload on how to use his workbench. It is pretty easy to follow and a simple one to use.
At the stage I’m at in design, built in clips can replace most hardware. If I’m using printed threads it is usually a very large thread with some thin sleeve like clearance. I like to build splines into my threads to also create locking elements in the same space.
Nice eye, expression, and the subtle details that support that direction of gaze
I have no skin in this, but VC is involved with Bambu, as I understand things. That never goes well for consumers. They backpedaled to slow down the path to closed garden exploitation, but took no steps to open source or sell a legitimate product that can be owned. The solution is unplug it from the internet cause we gonna do what we gonna do (fu fu)
Build a Voron and own it for life. I know the excuses, but burning ownership-money, only to rent what someone else controls is mental. In the big picture, that is willingly selling your right to citizenship for neo feudalism as a slave to an overlord. It really is that simple. Normalizing that dystopia hurts everyone else too. But hey you do you. I’m happy for ya if that is your cup of tea.
dichotomous thinking is the pretentiously fun term
Smooth prusa powder coated works great.
Drying makes a gigantic difference. It only takes around an hour in the open before TPU changes significantly from any ambient moisture and become visible in the print.
If you can control the moisture to a minor degree, you can alter the mechanical properties significantly. Once you hear popping, you’ll likely start blowing holes in prints, but there is a stage before this where the bubbles of gases are present but are not coalescing into the larger audible voids of escaping steam. You will see this on long prints using dried TPU filament left out in the open. There will be a much tougher start to the print that gradually degrades into a slightly softer and more flexible texture. It will likely turn slightly foam-like spongy rubbery soft for a section and then it will start popping and dropping walls with holes in the structure.
If you write down the room temperature and humidity and note the time it takes to get to this moisture property, it becomes possible to alter the flexible properties or empirical hardness of a TPU to make it behave in off label ways. This is essentially creating your own rudimentary foaming or light weight filament. It works best for vase mode or other small single wall structures. I have used this based on intuition alone. I imagine with a bit of record keeping one could control the humidity of a box to do longer prints within this state of foaming softness. I don’t know of anyone using a humidifier like the ones for acoustic guitar cases or cigars in a filament box, but that would be an interesting thing to play with too.
“Randomize seams” uhh no, design parts with seams in mind if they are critical. I often add a small 0.3mm double chamfer “zipper” on a surface because it will accommodate the inconsistency and reduce it by forcing the root inside the body. I’ve made my own infill structures and patterns lately too.
If you get into the weeds, there is not an accurate method of triggering any form of mechanical stop that involves touch or a hall effect probe. You must get into optics for real accuracy, but that is nonsense for the materials and scope of printing. You would need to eliminate many other variables like the filament accuracy and how backlash and step accuracy are eliminated as issues.
As a former owner of an auto body shop with employees, most people do not know what clean is or how tooth is required. Like isopropyl alcohol has its place but is ultimately extremely weak at real cleaning problems. In automotive paint, silicone is a major problem. It primarily comes from tire dressing that makes them look slick black. The amount of effort it takes to remove that junk for automotive quality work is insane. Most chemicals just push the junk around but leaves or dilutes the issue often making it worse. One of the big tricks in automotive stuff is (to use a chemical cleaning step first but -) a few drops of dish soap in the wet sanding bucket. The light soap will keep the sand paper clean and working longer, but makes most work also cleaning work. Anyways, dish soap can be very effective. Acetone occasionally on a surface is also effective. Virgin lacquer thinner is the strongest common solvent but it can react with lots of stuff and you are unlikely to find true virgin solvent. The recycled stuff has a paint stripper component in it that will cause epic nightmares and reacts with almost all plastics. Acetone is much cleaner and consistent unless it is sold for junk like nail polish.
The general rule of thumb is to assume a mechanical tooth adhesion is the primary form of bonding unless there is a catalyst involved (2k urethane/epoxy primers/clear). That rule can easily apply to 3d printing and bed adhesion. I see a lot of the same types of effects from different surfaces and filaments. In automotive paint, there are even special adhesion promoters like Bulldog for spraying plastic parts ahead of other finishes. I had other adhesion promotion tricks too, like a mist coating of clear coat. The main trick with all automotive paint adhesion is to know what grit or “tooth” each thing you’re spraying wants to grab onto and prep accordingly. So in 3d printing I use a similar approach with the general safe bet of sanding my smooth build plates to 600 grit. With sanding, do not start dirty, like you’re trying to embed junk into the surface. Start clean, then knock off the shine to a smooth and consistent matte finish on the entire surface. When it comes to sanding like this, edges and any anomalies are absolutely forbidden to sand. Never touch your edges until last when everything else is done. Edges are always thinnest and most vulnerable to causing issues especially for the inexperienced. You match them to the rest of the matte surface carefully at the end.
Clean a smooth build plate with acetone like once or twice a year and then sand it to matte, clean that with dish soap, then alcohol with each print. That will completely eliminate contamination as a cause. If you have old skool clean glass with no coatings as a build plate, sanding is optional because you can use something like lacquer thinner or less effective acetone to get it absolutely clean.
Perfect first layers are possible with enough fussing with the software. If you really want to level the bed with hardware, use a dial gauge clamped to the extruder. That will remove all of the averaging and inaccuracies from probing if it is a quality gauge that is smooth and not sticky. You would need to get into optics for true accuracy like with closed loop control systems that are an order of magnitude more expensive than 3d printers. 3d printers are precision machines with no accuracy. The 0,0 home location is always slightly different, but all measurements are based upon this location. This issue becomes relevant with IDEX and CNC. Going well beyond these – in optics accuracy requires a defraction grading and alignment of light wave patterns. I so want to get into that one to grind my own telescope mirrors. Typically accurate machines use a flag of metal sticking out somewhere at a known location and an optical encoder switch that gets interrupted without anything touching as this is typically the closest you’ll get to real accuracy down to the clock and instructions timing of the interrupt routine in the microcontroller.
If you have v-roller wheels on extrusions, one other major potential issue is that extrusions have a relatively large twist tolerance component in their specification. It is extremely difficult to detect this kind of twist, but it is a major potential issue. It generally requires a high metrology grade granite surface block and parallel sticks to measure twist in a precision instrument’s linear bearings… as far as I understand it. I have seen such things being measured but have never done so myself.
Very cool. I was thinking about ways of making a potentiometer knob on an audio amp more visually interesting. The moire effect might be one to play around with.
I don’t think I would trust this one in practice, but the effect is interesting. I found it far more necessary to learn the vernier scale with micrometers. It felt much more useful understanding the practical limitations and scope of when to use calipers versus a mic. While there are super accurate calipers, relatively cheap calipers and micrometers are far cheaper and easier for most people to access.
When it comes to radius gauges I trust these more than any of the others I have tried:
I know this kinda isn’t the point, but using it as an excuse to share – the fishing leader line to hold a set like this is key to making them super handy. Unfortunately I have only used micrometers on a few 3d printing projects. Those are more used within the machining realm.
took way too long to figure out/make a small gif in Linux and even this one took hacking slow frames to get under 300kB with gnome screen capture, ffmpeg, gimp, and gifsicle to capture a simple FreeCAD turntable.
Thanks. I’m not worried. I have nothing to lose and anyone scraping has enough to find me if they really wanted to. If they are after some physically disabled guy, hopefully they do a better job than the person that left me like this.
That is amazing. I have got to get my GPU water cooler done so I can do video. How this is interacting with the prompt in the model loader code seems intriguing to dig into
Nah, back before the internet was a thing everyone had access to, and like Wikipedia in their pockets, stuff like this happened for real, especially in small towns.
Like when I was a kid around 30 years ago people told ghost stories and shit as absolutely real. The information bottleneck is so hard to understand if you’re young now. Like cable TV was all of your regular entertainment and it sucked then too. Music was whatever was on the radio for most people. If you really wanted to know something niche, you had to go a long way away to a large regional library. If you wanted to buy something but were a poor average person, you went to yard sales and searched the newspaper classified ads. It was like this up until the turn of the century in most places. Dial up internet was so slow that you couldn’t load a single full resolution image before you finished, and there was a 50:50 chance you make a new futa friend in the end. It was a different world. People were much more gullible, or rather even a reasonably intelligent person struggled to cite sources and see through the haze.
Homeopathy Dr God found
Spreading Democracy
We already have spreading at home Jimmy
Now L.A. down and take dem- coc- ra- seeee
Who responds to a general skepticism as a personal insult while having no substantive material or value in reply and projects further onto absolutely unfounded and unrelated nonsense in a rant. That was remarkably pathetic and quite disappointing to see from any human. I expect you to act exactly like in real life and if you said this to my face, I’d call you a stupid asshole too.
nerdy reason needed
Looks like Halloween Cauliflower
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