a MEK vapor bath would likely give you a smooth finish. But, Uhm, personally the raw print is probably preferable as MEK is some nasty shit. (not so nasty you can’t buy it at your local big box hardware store, but it’s not something you can just pour into a kitchen pot and be safe around.)
it would work similar to an acetone vapor bath for ABS.
I’d okay with that. As long as it’s still technically a planet. (what? it’s my favorite!)
Pluto is a dwarf planet, which is still a planet.
Also, they absolutely should have just made an exception for Pluto so science teachers everywhere could have used that as a fun teaching point.
Very few printers are going to be able to do 90 degree overhangs even close to nicely. Bridging? Sure. With significant overhangs, it’s always going to wiggle a bit until you get some more layers.
If OP weren’t using this to get as close as possible, I’d say the answer was organic supports coming in from the bed.
Try Changing the width and Hight of the First Layer to smaller Values, no clue Why, but it Fixed this kinda issue before for me!
reducing the width of the first layer seems counter intuitive to me. usually adhession is improved by using widths wider than the nozzle since the plastic has to get smooshiefied into the surface. I don’t know there’s much difference on the first layer 125%-200% of the nozzle width, but I find going over definitely helps. (I use 150% for stronger parts in general.)
or at least that’s been my experience. nozzle height/z offset would be the first thing for me to check, but PLA shouldn’t be warping that bad, IMO, so there might be some thermal issues as well.
I was making an observation, rather than speculation.
I once made a joke about sea urchins and rule34…. Several people rule 35’d it
I’m sure there’s something out there. Rule 34 and all that.
I know, right?
for the record, this might give you an idea of how much floof that thing has. They’re where we get angora wool from.
they’re bookies… and they use wombats as enforcers.
I reckon the quokka is more cute than the bunny.
I dunno. rabbits have it on floof if you go with the angora. Quokka take it on charm, though.
fucker maced a harmless bunny…
granted the bunny was punching well above it’s fluffy weightclass. :)
Unfond of the cold white shit!
Never underestimate what a small creature can do.
I had the distinct displeasure of being a manager over a jackass that maced a bunny. (It was begging for food and he freaked out.)
Buns panicked, ran up his pantleg and went all Spawn of Caerbannog on his balls.
Dunno if he was emasculated, but you’d think it by his screaming. (It wasn’t just that it got nibbly. Buns was soaked in OC spray he was definitely not supposed to have.)
Buns found a good home with the animal rescue lady, too. She was decidedly less frosty when I asked for a copy of her report so we could put in his file.
As an American, it’s mostly just a joke.
A lot of it has to do with nature documentaries that focus on the extremely misunderstood but potentially deadly animals. For clicks, they tend to play up how dangerous/viscuous/whatever they are. (See every shark show ever)
Like quoka aren’t really talked about, either.
Only if we’re talking about food.
I’ve not used MEK personally, all of my petg parts are structural. What I’m seeing online says 60-80c.
What I’d do is kick it up by 5c at a time.
swap in failed test prints and see how that changes things. Keep in mind if you stay in the cold range and give it more time, it might create a better finish.
Too hot and it’ll start melting.
Maybe also “priming” the chamber with a heat gun so the air is also warm. (Do this before placing the MEK!)
Also, a small hole someplace that’ll get covered and a toothpick to lift the part will help retain its shape.